Program Used:

There are several great programs developed for rabbit breeders. However, I like to keep track of my information fairly specifically, so I tend to do all of my record-keeping on Google Sheets. Creating your own spreadsheets allows you to add exactly which information you want and personalize it to your style. 

Google sheets, like Excel, also has lots of fun shortcuts or functions to help you calculate statistics, due dates, and more.

I have a Google Sheets document labeled 'Rabbit Work' that houses all of my rabbit sheets as I like to keep my information sorted into specific tabs.

 
 
 
This photo shows where to add a new sheet on Google Sheets. Then just click between tabs!


If you do not want to go through all the hassle of detailed record keeping, at least utilize your notes app on your phone if you have it! Before using Google Sheets I would just make a note of breeding information (when they were bred, when they are due, and who they are bred to), litter information (when they were born and when they are 6 and 8 weeks old, and kept all my pedigrees in a binder with sheet protectors.


___________________________________________________


Keeping track of who is in your barn:

While it might be easy to keep track of a few rabbits, as your herd increases in size, it is a good idea to keep a record of which bunnies are residing in your barn. I like to make several lists to keep my bunnies straight. 


List One: Breeding bucks and does

This list is to keep track of which bucks and does I have that are part of my breeding stock. These are rabbits that I am actively breeding, or rabbits that have been moved from the grow-out section since I like them enough to add into my breeding program. 
​
In my spreadsheet I like to format my list like this:













On the left side I filled it in with some of our bunny's info to show you how we style ours. I like to give each rabbit their own color, but I think that is just more fun for me. On the top is our Mini Lops and three New Zealand's on the bottom. The right table is a simple blank one. I like to have this table as it helps me see the ratio I have of bucks and does.


List Two: Grow Outs

Our grow out table is to show us rabbits who are old enough to not be with mom anymore but are still undecided on whether they will stay or leave. It is a fairly simple table. 











This table helps me keep track of all the rabbits I am holding onto. It allows me to see all the grow outs in one spot, which can also help me make decision on who from the list are my favorites and which I think can move onto the sale list. In parenthesis is their tattoos. 


List Three: For Sale

The For Sale list is pretty simple as well. It is just another table that I have so I can keep track of which rabbits I have available for people who are looking.









Once again, their tattoos are in parenthesis.


List Four: Breeding Schedule

The breeding schedule is the final piece of information I keep on the first sheet. Once a rabbit is bred, we immediately put the necessary information in the breeding schedule table. The information we add is what doe was bred, which buck she was bred to, the date they were first put together, their due date, date born (which is left blank until they are born), and then the date at which they will be 8 and 12 weeks old (if they go on their due date).

** Always make sure to make a note of the doe bred, buck used, date bred, and due date when breeding rabbits even if you do not use our format! You wouldn't believe how easy it can be in such a short time to forget which buck you chose to use, what day you had them together, and all that stuff! **

Why we add so much to our table:

Doe, buck, date bred, and date due are pretty much the essential to mark down, but we like to keep track of more than just that.

By adding in the 8 week and 12 week mark, we are making note of some important dates. By 8 weeks they should be for sure weaned from mom, though sometimes they are ready by 6-7 weeks. 8 weeks is the latest we will keep babies with a mom since by then they are independent, plus mom is ready to ditch them. It also allows mom to start her bounce back process for the next breeding.

12 weeks is around the earliest they could be shown (though they aren't always the most competitive at that age still). 12 weeks is still a fairly good marker for when they should be becoming show ready.

We also add a notes section where we keep track of number of kits born/alive, the colors produced from the pairing, and number of boys/girls. Knowing which colors you produced between a pair can be fun and possibly help you understand their genetic makeup better. Though it should be 50/50, you can also see if certain does consistently seem to be throwing you more bucks or does, or if a certain time of year you are experiencing more bucks/does. However, in the notes section the most important piece of info is how many kits were born, and how many survived. It should help you identify if a doe tends to lose babies or if a doe consistently throws very small litters.

















You can see that the different colors for each rabbit help to sort them visually, but it is not necessary. From these screenshots, you will likely notice that Blossom and Bon Bon have had their babies, but the notes are still not filled out. I can add how many were born, but I usually wait around 2 weeks to mark if any have passed away. After two weeks it is likely an accident and not the mom's fault if a kit passes. Usually, ones lost within a day to a week can be related to the mom. Knowing colors and genders usually takes 4-6 weeks.

I also like to add the range of dates when the moms should be due in the notes to help me keep track of how long they were with the buck, and to know babies still might be coming even if they didn't get bred on the first day and missed the first due date.


All these sections I keep on one sheet. My 'Breeding Schedule' tab on my Google Sheets is laid out like this:















 _____________________________________________________________